26 June 2015

Magic flavors. The history of perfume

магия ароматов
The times when perfumery was accessible only to the chosen, were in the distant past. Today, to find a store where a wide variety of perfume or toilet water, is not easily. And you can choose the flavor that will satisfy even the most demanding taste thanks to the variety of goods. In addition, the widespread use of artificially synthesized components made perfumes available for people with different income levels. But it is not just a perfume or eau de toilette fill our life with a pleasant smell, it became fashionable to flavor a variety of items used in everyday life.


The debate about whether to consider the art of perfumery, has moved to the past. There is no doubt that compose fragrances with which you do not want to leave - for a chosen few. And, of course, to make sure that the fragrance was able to awaken memories, make re-live moments of happiness - is an art to master which is given is not for everyone.
Aromas can be called a kind of magical substance that can take us to another dimension, "raise" above the commonplace.
Now the spirits used to enhance the acute sensations during different emotional states, because smells can evoke, "Kindle" sensuality, connecting conscious and subconscious.
Aromas have yet another unique ability - to deceive. Woman has always sought to transform itself using scents.
Now men and women follow, carried away by the toilet water and perfume.
We know the famous saying of Coco Chanel, who once said: "Perfume - is invisible, but unforgettable, unsurpassed fashion accessory. It signals the emergence of women and continues to remind her when she left ..." Currently, perfume is an art, and for men and Coco Chanel phrase is true in relation to the stronger sex.
For this reason, the impact of smells as strong and "intangible" as well as the impact of any work of art. If you pick up the spirits in accordance with the seasons and periods of day, moods and outfits, the circumstances and the people around them, life will get new paint, and perhaps will flow in a different, happier, bed.
Perfume is both the means of seduction, and a means of enjoyment. Something incredibly charming emanates from everything connected with the spirits.


FROM THE HISTORY OF PERFUME

The art of perfumery is fine and surprising. Mysterious, sweet world of smells irresistibly attracts. This mysterious world has its own history, its own laws and its own traditions.
The history of perfume goes back to ancient times. It all started with the fact that the ancient people during religious rituals began to burn on the altars resin. The word "perfume" comes from the Latin perfum, which literally means "through smoke".
The first mention of perfumes found in Egyptian annals. With the opening of the tomb of King Tutankhamun 3,000 vessels have been found with the spices, which after 300 centuries still exuded the aroma.

Egyptians praised their gods fumigation and produced fragrant aromatic oils and ointments that have been used in various ceremonies and are used by women in the commission of the toilet. The Greeks brought from his expeditions new flavors; in ancient Rome smells began to ascribe healing powers. Due to the invasion of the barbarians suspended the use of fragrances in the West. And then the Muslims began to develop the art of perfumery: the Arabs and Persians have become incomparable connoisseurs of spices: they invented the alembic and improved distillation.
The second half of the XIV century is characterized by the appearance of liquid spirits based on alcohol and essential oils, which are used under the name of aromatic waters. Legend has it that the recipe for the first "Water of the Queen of Hungary" (based on rosemary) was presented to Queen Elizabeth monk. Taking the water inside, seriously ill queen recovered.
In the XVI century joined the profession perfumer and glover, as perfumed gloves came into vogue.
In the Renaissance and beyond, in the XVI and XVII centuries, refused to use them. As revenge flavors intake doubled to mask unpleasant odors.
The first revolution in the history of perfumery came after the French Revolution, when the guild glovers and perfumers split into two separate groups.
In 1608, in Florence, in the convent of Santa Maria Novella, there is the world's first perfume factory. Fabrikant become monks Dominicans themselves. Nourish them and make the rich (financial) contributions to the monastery of dukes, princes and the Pope himself.
In the XVII century, perfume industry flourished in France. The court of King Louis XV was called "fragrant yard," because at the time the spirits used not only for the body but also for flavoring clothes, fans, gloves, and even furniture.
In 1709 in Cologne Italian Giovanni Maria Farina, who traded spices, for the first time released and sale scented water, named after the city "Cologne water." In France, it was brought but the second half of the XVIII suit and since then has spread to all countries under the French name of Eau de Cologne. (Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte bought 60 bottles of cologne in a month!)
In the XIX century Jean Guerlain ( «Guerlain»), François Coty ( «Coty») and Ernest Daltrof ( «Caron») - «fathers" of modern perfume - made several fundamental theories in the science of creating fragrances. In the middle of the XX century the spirits production has ceased to be primitive: they began to occur major perfume company.
The next turning point in the history of perfumery accounted for 10-ies of XX century, when the designer decided to combine the business of fashion and perfumes. In 1911, Paul Poiret was the first who had the idea to complement the flavors of the clothing line. The commercial logic of the ideas brought to the end of the great Gabrielle Chanel, which released in 1921 the spirits with his trademark - Chanel № 5.

Spirits of the continued evolution. François Coty was the first who joined in the compositions of natural odors with scents created artificially. In 1917 he released Chypre ( "chypre"), which later became the "forerunner" of a family of smells. We develop the so-called oriental and amber scents that convey the soft, powdery, vanilla and pronounced animal scents.
In the early 1920s it was discovered ways to create fragrances "synthetic" by "revolution" in the perfumery aldehydes committed, first used in Chanel № 5. The number of new spirits has increased dramatically.
In the 1950s, the French perfumery reached its peak. In France, we worked most talented compilers perfume - perfume. We reached perfection and perfumes for men.
With the advent of the spirits of the Atlantic intensified international competition.
In the early 1960s there was a boom of fragrances for men.
In the 1970s came the fashion for collections «pret-a-porter». So, a new perfume «pret-a-porter de lux», has not lost a high quality and sophistication «haute couture», but has become more accessible.
In the 1980s, experiments with shapes of bottles; It became fashionable thick, heavy, "amber" fragrance. At the end of the 80s in perfume laboratories are completely new bouquets. This so-called fresh, ozone and marine motifs reminiscent of the oceans and algae.
In the 1990s, "selfish" smells of the past decade gave way to natural-natural, easier. Marine notes transformed into the so-called water motifs, evoke associations with smells of lotus and water lilies.
New technology "Fresh flowers» (Living-Flower Technology) now allows "collect" the smell of flowers and plants unpicked.
To do this, they are placed under a glass dome, and through a special branch of "pull" flavor.
Very popular in the past went to enjoy the smell of fruit. According to experts, the end of the XX century perfume absorbed the flavors of lemon, orange, blackcurrant, pineapple, mango, and at the beginning of the new millennium are unlikely to change.
Spirits of the fashion trends are inherent grace, the maximum brevity odor, tenderness. They can live together lightness and richness, they are well in tune with the natural smell of leather, transparent, tangible and elusive.

Since then, people have learned to use a magic flavor, it took many centuries. Over time, perfumes separated from their "ancestors" and has taken a worthy place among other arts.

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